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A Quick Guide To Climbing Khüiten Peak

Updated: Jun 7, 2020

Location: China-Mongolian border in the Altai Range

Summit Altitude: 4,374m

Climb Duration: 10 to 14 days

General Information

In Mongolian, Khüiten Peak translates to “cold peak” but in Chinese it translates into “Friendship Peak”. This quite literal cold peak is home to several glaciers with the most famous one being the Potanin. It is Mongolia’s longest glacier spanning a huge 14km.

The mountain is located in the Altai Tavan Bogd National Park – a stunning and highly protected park that offers valleys of green grass, snow capped peaks, lakes, Kazakh herders and eagle hunters, foxes, bears, lynxes and the endangered snow leopard. The Mongolian countryside even has yaks and the Bactrian double-humped camel!

Khüiten Peak is beautiful and the surrounding areas just magnify its beauty. The contrast between the green grass and white peaks are the views of dreams. If you have the chance to climb Khüiten Peak then absolutely do it. It will be a climb that you treasure for the rest of your life! Although it is not as challenging as other peaks of its height, it is without doubt one of the most beautiful and scenic mountains that has yet to be spoilt by floods of tourism. You don’t climb this peak for the ultimate physical challenge; you climb it for the beauty and quiet surroundings.

Logistical Information

The best time of year to climb Khüiten Peak is between June and August. This trek can take anywhere between 10 to 14 days depending on the amount of stops you have on the way. It is worth setting aside spare time to see and experience the culture and way of life in this part of the world. It is a raw and diverse taking in both the adventure of climbing a peak but also the surrounding culture and people.

I’ll be honest, despite its beauty; there is a downside to this trek. Khüiten Peak is not the easiest mountain to get to, which can be an advantage for those looking for a remote, quieter peak to climb but for others, the time and price it takes to get there can mean that this peak is just not possible for them logistically.

The best way to get there is to fly into Ölgii or Bayan-Ulgy in Western Mongolia. The best way to get there is with a domestic flight from Ulaan Bataar. Make sure you check with your tour provider which city is best to fly into.

The route to the Summit is beautiful and quiet. If you’ve done Kilimanjaro in peak season you’ll know what a busy route looks and feels like, but this peak offers the complete opposite. With endless views of incredible landscapes, blissful silence except for the wind and the crunch of the snow under your boots and the probability that there are only a handful of people on the mountain at any given time.

Although Khüiten Peak is an easy, scenic, cultural trek, you should still train for it. The more trained you are, the more fun this incredible adventure will be.

For a dedicated and specific training plan for Khüiten Peak, checkout this blog:

If you’d prefer to work with a High Altitude Training Coach then click here for more information about The Mountaineering & Trekking Training Program.



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